 Author
|
Topic: Electrical Gremlins / Query... (Read 204 times)
|
|
Harvey
|
Hi All,
I've got an electrical gremlin i can't fathom out...it might turn out to be a common thing after a a battery runs dead and a new one put in but I don't know...
... so my battery died... and I replaced it. But,... my central locking and electric windows won't work until i've blipped the throttle passed 2,500rpm and then when the car idles, all works fine. So i switch off the engine and go to lock my car and... nothing. So I turn the engine back on and have to go through the above routine for all to work again so I turn the engine off. Get out and go to lock my car and... nothing... So by now you're getting the routine...
... so is the above normal when a battery dies and you put a new one in? Or is my Monty a bit special....?
Thanks for your help all
Harv.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
TinyTim
|
What voltage are you getting from the new battery mate?
Assuming this is correct it sounds like either the belt is slipping or the voltage regulator ain't working on the alternator
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
 Click banner for club gear, spares and accessories |
|
|
|
Harvey
|
Tim it's a 12v battery, other than that i don't know? I've also just had the fan belt replaced and that isn't slipping... so by deduction it must be the regulator you mention. What's the regulator look like?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
adam1181
|
sounds like the battery isn't holding a charge to me. i'd say the alternator is working fine and after the blip of the throttle the alternator is whats powering the locking.
is it a new battery? you really need to check the battery voltage as tim suggested.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
TinyTim
|
Harvey - get a voltmeter on the battery with car off, running and running max electrical load and see what voltage you are actually getting.
If the belt is slightly loose it's possible that it grips at higher revs but tbh it's more likely the battery or regulator
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Click banner for club gear, spares and accessories |
|
|
Sparks
Jr. Member
 Offline
Posts: 125
|
Hi
Are you sure you put the battery wiring back properly?
This sounds as though your locks etc. are only powered once the alternator has kicked in. This could be due to poor battery voltage, but you don't say the truck is hard to start, which it certainly would be if the battery was so low it couldn't power the central locking!
I would be very interested in the voltage readings as others have suggested, but don't expect them to provde the full answer.
What model, year etc. is your truck? I'll have a look at the wiring diagram in my Haynes, if it covers your one, and see can I figure it out.
There may be a large fuse in the positive feed to the fusebox. If there is, it's probably blown! If that's the problem, your new battery won't be getting charged, so you'll soon enough be back to no start!
Get the Volt readings and tell us what the truck is, then I can make a better attempt...
sparks
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Harvey
|
Hi again... took Monty down to the garage and i'm getting over 12 volts from the battery and just under 12 volts from the alternator. It doesn't matter if the vehicle is idling or running at 3000rpm if it helps. My model is a 96 LWB 2.8tdi... an NJ i think?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
TinyTim
|
You should have 14 volts plus mate so i reckon your alternator is knackered if the belt is tight
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Click banner for club gear, spares and accessories |
|
|
Sparks
Jr. Member
Offline
Posts: 125
|
You should have 14 volts plus mate so i reckon your alternator is knackered if the belt is tight
I concur. Can't yet see how it can explain your RPM-dependent central locking! I'll have a squint at the diagram shortly and get back to you, if anything occurs to me. sparks |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Harvey
|
Thanks all for your help as it is appreciated!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
will bearing
Jr. Member
Offline
Posts: 57
95 Shogun GLS 3.0V6 LWB Auto
|
Hi, it sounds like you may have a blown a fusable link or iod (ignition off draw), i would check the fuses and links in the engine bay. fusible link 1 is a 60 amp that battery, link 2 100amp alternator,link 5 30amp electric window, with an iod blown you will loose central locking and other things with ignition off. but when its running they get a feed fuse 12,10,and 13 under the dash.
Will
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Harvey
|
Hi All !
Will.... you were 100% correct. But i only found this out today... after having ordered the alternator!
Lesson learned!
Harv.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Sparks
Jr. Member
Offline
Posts: 125
|
Hi Don't worry about having already ordered the alternator. It's cheap insurance against the old one failing, to have a new one waiting in the wings! Also, depending on what was happening when the big fuse blew, you may have "spiked" the reg in the alternator, so pay close attention to the charging volts for a while. If you see anything over 14.8 at the battery you need to change the alt, or at least the reg, immediately. Otherwise you'll need another new battery! On the other hand, anything less than 13.5, with the engine running and warning lights out, indicates under-charging and you need to change the alt, or at least the reg, soon. Otherwise you'll get stranded somewhere looking for a jump start! All that said, modern regs are more robust and sometimes survive several spikes. If you have a new one standing by you'll probably never need it... until the day after you give it away  Good to hear the basic problem's been found sparks |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
 |
Pajero UK
