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Dabsy
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How does the handbrake operate the rear discs?
2.5DTI 1992 "J" Auto LWB... I have a "Binding" problem with my nsr brakes. Had 'em apart once to clean up but after going to Flamingoland this particular wheel was VERY HOT. As I said, I dismantled the NSR brakes and cleaned with the obvious but still binding... Should i grease the sliders or remove disc? DAZ
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TinyTim
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Whoa !
Handbrake doesn't act on the disks mate. There are shoes inside the hub especially for the handbrake which fill with mud btw. You have to take the disks off to get to them but it's an easy enough job.
Check the slider bolts are straight, greaded with copperslip and that the piston moves freely in the caliper.
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cobraman
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tim your slacking on your tech knowledge the handbrake does work on some models around that era on the disc the only true way of telling easily is to see where the handbrake cable goes to , if it is on the caliper it will go to a cam lug which has a tendency to stick the way i found to cure it was in a vice and keep turning it while spraying with wd40 and then when its freed up applie copper grease or something to keep it well oiled
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Logged
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if its not broken dont fix it 
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TinyTim
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Ah well - fair enough 'cept I know this ain't a Mk1 mate 
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cobraman
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wasnt sure if it was a mk1 or 2 did they not do the brakes on the calipers on the end of the mk1 and the beggining of the mk2 anyway only sure way to tell is where the handbrake cable goes
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Logged
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if its not broken dont fix it 
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Dabsy
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Thanks guys.... The cable goes into hub and not the caliper (Late '92 "J")... Never had disc off before so should I be aware of anything? How should I free it off or lube it? DAZ
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TinyTim
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Once wheel is off and handbrake slackened off fully you should be able to hit the inside of the disk with a rubber mallet and it will come off with what appears to be the outside of the hub
be aware that they are heavy !
and that the inside of the handbrake is well fiddly
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Dabsy
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Thx Tim  So what you're saying is chock the wheels in "Park", release handbrake and whack the disk off? Then what? LOL 
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TinyTim
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Nah mate
You need really need to jack up the back end, release handbrake and slacken adjuster underneath the car as well
Remove rear wheels, then you will see that what looks like hubs and disks is in fact the same thing
That all comes off and you can see what the state of your handbrake shoes is,
But - before trying that if you look in the rear plate there bis a rubber bung with and adjusting wheel behind it. You can try adjusting that and seeing if it makes any difference in either direction
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Dabsy
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 Bad news I'm afraid  Had caliper and hub/disc off... Handbrake shoes are like new so not at fault. On the inner side of the brake disc it has a purple shine and pitted, as do both pads... I would say the caliper is the cause as the inner pad has worn at an slight angle!! This suggests that the pot is not retracting freely. How much for a rear disc and pad set? And should I try overhauling the caliper before changing it? DAZ 
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ANDREW
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thats not good news, putting to much grease on the caliper pins can cause this to happen aswell, because if the grease cant come back along the pin, the caliper wont be stright 
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Dabsy
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Cleaned all the caliper mounting faces, sliders were good... What if I re-bleed that caliper? Could it be shite or expired fluid (contaminated)? Either way, new rear discs/pads but gotta sort caliper 1st !!!
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TinyTim
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More than likely just a seized piston that neads cleaning up and new seal kit then
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djadams
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i would say how to double check is jack the whole car up if possible to see if nsr wheel rotates or feels tight then check the o/s/f if both wheels are tight or wont turn then your master cylinder is on the way out, if that is not the case then while the brake is still bound on slacken off the bleed nipple on the n/s/r caliper if the disc then rotates you will find that the flexi hose has collapsed, if the caliper remains tight after that then you have wheened out the other causes and can look at changing the brake caliper.
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Mudlark
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i would say how to double check is jack the whole car up if possible to see if nsr wheel rotates or feels tight then check the o/s/f if both wheels are tight or wont turn then your master cylinder is on the way out, if that is not the case then while the brake is still bound on slacken off the bleed nipple on the n/s/r caliper if the disc then rotates you will find that the flexi hose has collapsed, if the caliper remains tight after that then you have wheened out the other causes and can look at changing the brake caliper.
You can't do this with a LSD back axle as both wheels turn together — found this out when trying to sort my back brakes out.
 Bad news I'm afraid  Had caliper and hub/disc off... Handbrake shoes are like new so not at fault. On the inner side of the brake disc it has a purple shine and pitted, as do both pads... I would say the caliper is the cause as the inner pad has worn at an slight angle!! This suggests that the pot is not retracting freely. How much for a rear disc and pad set? And should I try overhauling the caliper before changing it? DAZ  Wondering if the highest part of the brake pad corresponds with the purple shine on your disc A glazed disc will not provide any friction at all, so if only part of it is glazed — say the inner part — then only the outer part of the disc will cause braking friction and wear the pad. This uneven wear will then force the piston to twist in the pot jamming it and causing your problem. In which a new disc and pads should sort as long as the caliper has not been irreparably damaged
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1988 Mk1 SWB
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