FITTING NEW REAR SHOCKERS AND COIL SPRINGS
FITTING HEAVY DUTY +2 IN REAR SPRINGS + PRO-COMP ES9000`S TO K reg LWB PAJERO - AS SEEN IN CLUB SHOP
TOOLS NEEDED:
BIG JACK
AXLE STANDS
BIG CRACK BAR
SPANNERS: 8mm, 2x17mm, 24mm OR BIG ADJUSTABLE
SOCKETS: 17mm, 24mm
WIRE BRUSH
MOLE GRIPS
LOTS OF STRONG TIEWRAPS
HAMMER
CHISEL
CRAFT KNIFE
LOTS OF WD40
STURDY SCREWDRIVER OR PRY BAR
SPRAY THE TOP AND BOTTOM SHOCKER MOUNTINGS AND THE DRIVERS SIDE LATERAL (PANHARD) ROD BOLT TWICE A DAY WITH LOTS OF WD40 FOR A FEW DAYS BEFORE YOU DO THIS
DO BOTH SIDES AT ONCE: CRACK OFF THE WHEEL NUTS, JACK THE CAR UP FROM UNDER THE REAR DIFF AND SUPPORT WITH AXLE STANDS ON THE CHASSIS RAILS . IT NEEDS TO BE QUITE HIGH UP. REMOVE THE WHEELS.
SKIP THIS SECTION IF ONLY FITTING SPRINGS *****************************************
IF YOU HAVE THE ACTUATORS FITTED FOR THE ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION YOU NEED TO REMOVE THESE NEXT. I WHACKED MOST OF MINE OFF WITH THE HAMMER AND CHISEL BECAUSE THE ES9000`S DONT USE THEM AND I`M NEVER GOING TO RE-FIT STANDARD SHOCKERS. YOU CAN REMOVE THEM WITH THE 8mm SPANNER, BUT THE BOLT WILL PROBABLY SNAP ANYWAY.
USE A THIN 17mm SPANNER (THE ONE OUT OF THE BOOT TOOLKIT IS FINE) TO HOLD THE LOWER OF THE 2 NUTS ON THE TOP MOUNTING, AND USE ANOTHER 17mm SPANNER ON THE TOP NUT, GOOD LUCK, ITS HARD WORK, I HAD TO CUT ONE OF MINE OFF WITH THE ANGLE GRINDER.
REMOVE THE REST OF THE ACTUATOR BRACKET, THE LOWER NUT, (MIGHT NEED TO HOLD THE TOP OF THE THREADS WITH THE MOLE GRIPS IF IF SPINS),
THE WASHER WITH THE PIN ON IT AND THE RUBBER BUSH.
REMOVE THE BOTTOM MOUNTING USING THE 24mm SOCKET ON THE BIG BAR AND THE BIG ADJUSTABLE/24mm SPANNER ON THE OTHER END. THIS ONE WILL BE QUITE TIGHT TOO.
REMOVE THE BOTTOM BOLT, COMPRESS THE SHOCKER AND REMOVE..
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NEXT REMOVE THE SPRINGS.
IF YOU ARE ONLY DOING THE SPRINGS AND NOT THE SHOCKERS YOU WILL STILL NEED TO REMOVE THE LOWER MOUNTING BOLT FROM THE DRIVERS SIDE SHOCKER
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remove the lateral rod bolt:runs parallel behind the axle, only need to remove the drivers side by;
USING THE 24mm SOCKET AND THE BIG BAR ON THE REARMOST SIDE OF THE BOLT AND THE 24mm SPANNER OR THE BIG ADJUSTABLE BRACED AGAINST THE CHASSIS ON THE OTHER SIDE, CRACK THIS BUGGER OFF....... YOU `LL NEED TO RAISE/LOWER THE JACK TO GET THE BOLT OUT COS IT FOULS ON THE AXLE AND THERES A BRAKE PIPE IN THE WAY TOO......
WITH THAT OUT YOU CAN POP THE ROD OUT OF THE BRACKET + SLOWLY LOWER THE JACK TILL YOU CAN PULL THE SPRINGS OUT (THIS IS WHY THE CAR NEEDS TO BE HIGH UP ON THE AXLE STANDS)
NEW SPRINGS IN THE +2 INCH LIFT KIT "LIFT" THE CAR BY PREVENTING SAG.... THE SPRINGS ARE NO LONGER THAN STANDARD ONES, BUT HAVE AN EXTRA COIL AND ARE MADE OF THICKER METAL SO THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR IS HELD HIGHER UP
REFIT THE NEW SPRINGS, MAKING SURE THE LEFT SIDE ONE GOES ON THE PASSENGER SIDE, + THE FLAT EDGED COIL GOES TO THE TOP
JIGGLE THEM AROUND TILL THE TOP IS ROUND THE SEAT AND THE END OF THE BOTTOM COIL IS IN THE RECESS (AS YOU RAISE THE JACK BACK UP + THE SPRING COMPRESSES IT WILL TURN CLOCKWISE, SO START IT 1/2 INCH AWAY FROM THE RECESS AND ADJUST IF NECCASARY)
RAISE THE JACK, MAKING SURE THE SPRINGS ARE SEATED OK, TILL THE HOLE IN THE LATERAL ROD IS ABOUT NEAR THE HOLE IN THE BRACKET, STICK THE SCREWDRIVER IN FROM THE BACK AND RAISE/LOWER THE JACK TILL YOU CAN GET THE BOLT PAST THE BRAKE PIPE. YOU NEED TO PRISE THE BAR ABOUT WITH THE SCREWDRIVER TO GET THE BOLT THRO, AND YOU MIGHT NEED TO RAISE/LOWER THE JACK A FEW TIMES TO GET IT THRO`, BUT THE HIGHER YOU CAN GET THE JACK, (DON`T LIFT THE CAR OFF THE STANDS), THE CLOSER THE HOLE WILL BE TO LINING UP..... PUT THE WASHER AND NUT BACK ON AND RETORQUE TO: 235nm
IF YOU WERE ONLY DOING THE SPRINGS THERES JUST THE PASSENGER SIDE LOWER SHOCKER BOLT TO REFIT + TORQUE UP......
OTHERWISE.....
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THEN REFIT THE SHOCKERS
I`VE HAD TO MAKE SOME OF THE REST UP COS I HAVENT GOT THE ES9000`S, THEY WERE OUT OF STOCK, SO I`VE PUT ES3000`S ON AND THEY AREN`T NITROGEN FILLED SO WERE EASIER TO COMPRESS AND I DIDN`T HAVE TO MESS ABOUT WITH THE TIEWRAPS, BUT I`VE LEFT THIS PART IN INCASE THE ES9000`S ARE MORE DIFFICULT....
THE OLD ONE CAME OUT QUITE EASILY, BUT THE ES9000`S ARE NITROGEN FILLED AND WHILE IT IS POSSIBLE TO COMPRESS THEM, THEY EXTEND AS SOON AS YOU TAKE PRESSURE OFF MAKING THEM HARD TO FIT. WHAT I DID WAS MAKE 2 LOOPS OF TIEWRAPS GOING THRO THE BOTTOM BUSH AND ONTO THE WELDED TOP CAP, WITH ANOTHER TIEWRAP HOLDING THEM IN PLACE... THIS MEANT I COULD COMPRESS THEM THEN PULL THE TIEWRAPS TIGHT TO HOLD THEM IN PLACE....MAKE SURE YOU FIT THE BOOT BEFORE YOU DO THIS....AND THE STICKER IF YOU WANT IT ON..... ***SEE PHOTO***
FIT THE LOWER WASHER AND BUSH ON THE TOP MOUNTING
FIT THE METAL SLEEVE IN THE BOTTOM MOUNTING BUSH, CHOOSE WHICH ONE GIVES THE SNUGGEST FIT AROUND YOUR BOTTOM BOLT.
WIGGLE THE SHOCKER THRO` THE HOLE AND INTO THE BOTTOM MOUNTING. THE TOP MIGHT NEED LEVERING IN DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH YOU MANAGED TO GET IT COMPRESSED.
SNIP THE TIEWRAPS, WIGGLE THE TOP MOUNT AROUND TO SEAT THE BUSH AND FIT THE TOP BUSH, WASHER AND NUT.... ( I COULDN`T GET ENOUGH THREADS SHOWING TO GET THE NUT ON SO I TRIMMED OFF SOME OF THE BUSH FROM ONE SIDE WITH THE CRAFT KNIFE)
REMOVE THE REST OF THE TIEWRAPS FROM THE HOLE & REFIT THE BOTTOM MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT, AND RETORQUE TO:
LEAF SPRING MODELS:
REAR SHOCKER NUTS: 22nm
COIL SPRING MODELS:
UPPER SHOCK ABSORBER NUT: 15nm
LOWER SHOCK ABSORBER BOLTS: UPTO + INC 1993: 120nm
LOWER SHOCK ABSORBER BOLTS: 1994 ON: 216nm
SECURE THE BOTTOM OF THE (RED) BOOT WITH THE SUPPLIED TIEWRAP
REPLACE THE WHEELS, LOWER TO THE GROUND AND RETORQUE THE WHEEL NUTS
THIS GUIDE IS EXACTLY THAT....... A GUIDE. THIS IS MY EXPERIENCE AND MAYBE IT WILL BE OF SOME HELP TO YOU. I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC, AND I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING EVER. ALWAYS SUPPORT THE CAR ON AXLE STANDS CAPABLE OF TAKING THE WEIGHT, AND ALWAYS USE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING: ie GOGGLES IF YOU DONT WANT RUST IN YOUR EYES, A COAT IF ITS RAINING......... IF YOU`RE NOT SURE WHAT YOUR DOING - DON`T DO IT, GET A PROFESSIONAL TO DO IT
OTHER WISE "GOOD LUCK"
NOT MANY PHOTOS, BUT I`LL ADD MORE WHEN I FIT THE ES9000`S
Pajero UK
Author
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