Bolt details, some original bolts have locking bars to assist you but the kit bolts do not..

Removing bumpers takes around 3 hours, then ...

REMOVING BODY BOLTS

1. Removed all nuts to body mounts, some are ordinary bolts without any lock to prevent them turning (M14).

2. After removing all the nuts removed the bolts except in front. Remove carpet in front of front and rear seats to access the bolt head (see pix) some covered by rubber plug.

ENGINE BAY

3. Remove the brackets for fuel hoses (left rear) remove battery (all) Remove the inter cooler. Remove front grill & skid plates in front. Have a good look at all pipes in the engine bay under the engine ; fuel, brake, vacuum etc this to determine what can move up 2 inches without loosing the hose / line brackets. The best is to by hand check the slack in the lines / hoses. this is very practical no theory, repeat as you go along with lifting more frequent the closer you come to the engine bay.

4. Remove radiator fan air duct. (loosen up)

5. Remove radiator upper support brackets

6. When doing this removal, return bolts to the bracket as far as possible, then you do not have a lot of bolts you do not know where they belong.

INSERTING SPACERS

7. By now you know that you need something to lay down on and some ting to put under your knees on, I used an old door mat to lay down on and a chair pillow for my knees...old man needs a soft touch.

8. I started at right rear corner here I could squeeze in my modified jack no clutter with fuel lines. I used my floor jack and 2 pieces 4x6 inches wood blocks under front door to ease the pressure from frame. Yeah the frame follows when body is lifted.

9. Jacked up the right rear corner with my modified jack, slowly now its time to start listening to what you are doing if no noises just continue until you reached the required lift In my case 2 inches.

10. Warning jack slowly and place bits of wood between body and frame this to prevent the body to fall down if jack slips. You might have to reposition jack or the leaver during lifting process and add plywood between jack and frame to spread load if not positioned on a stiffening beam.

11. WARNING 2!! WATCH WHERE YOU PUT YOUR FINGERS THE WEIGHT OF THE BODY WILL CUT THE FINGERS OFF IF IF IT FALLS DOWN!!!

12. Put the lift block in place alien bolt use washers from the original bolt tighten nut as far as to nylon lock.

13. Have a break and think....................

14 Continue to left rear corner it gets a bit more tricky not so much space to fiddle with, fuel lines are in the way, but the same procedure applies as on right side.

15. OK the left rear corner lift block is now in place, now continue to left side lifting of the 2 blocks under the front door. Now you have the most heavy load to lift, my modified jack collapsed here, but I did pile wood between frame and body before the jack collapsed. And I was so close so i hammered in the lift blocks. You have rubber on the underside so 3mm will give way for brute force.

16. When the left side blocks are in place use floor jack to crank up right side body and the lift blocks will slide in as the left side is already done and attached to the frame. EASY!

17. The remaining front mounts are a bitch, as they are in a recess and here is where you do not want to lift too much due to all the hoses and lines. Remove the bolts holding the rubber dampers and wiggle the original bolts out. To slide in the lift blocks is only possible from the inside to wards out side, due to the recess the blocks have to fit in to. Push up the body with your floor jack and use a lever to push down the fame and the lift blocks will slide in .HAMMER>>>GRRRR. Here it is better to be two persons...Hey I am strong...and now i need to take a rest.

18.The front lift block bolts are somewhat difficult to tighten, need two socket extensions to reach the bolt one left side, Note the large washer (stock item) goes between lift block and rubber I missed this one.

19. I checked the pipes & hoses under the engine, small adjustments needed on a few; power steering (converted to left-hand drive) needed a bit reshaping not to touch the lower radiator hose. Brake line needed to be reshaped, not to rub the inner fender, there is a rubber protector for the break line on the inner fender wall hole. Reshape by hand to get the brake line in the centre of the hole in fender wall.

20. The radiator fan duct needed a bit reshaping (cutting) to fit the fan, or remove it completely. The upper radiator hose still needs to be renewed to a approx. 1.5 inch longer hose. The air filter to turbo hose is stretched to the limit also.

BUMPERS

21. Front bumper see pix for cut to accommodate the chromed centre section. I welded the bumper brackets to the frame after a somewhat long fitting process, used c-clamps, lock-pliers string etc to get a nice fit. Note the outer fender panels have to be in place to get the right tilt of the bumper. The two bumper bracket moves up so far that additional steel has to be welded on top of frame to get a strong weld.

22. Rear bumper cut the brackets and move up 2 inches and tack weld, fit bumper and adjust brackets. Outer U bracket (4 nuts inside) cut the U bracket off only (cut top and bottom follow weld) do not cut the whole bracket as done in the pix (right side). Some bolts needs to be shortened to fit. The holes in the bumper are rather large so there is room for adjustment. I need to do a final fitting test of the bumper and then strengthen the brackets and tow hook bracket.

ROAD TEST NOTES

The body-lift is completed and I did a 260km test-run yesterday.

She sounds different well the engine is 2 inch lower..
also some noise from the rear on hard braking i suspect the rear bumper touching the body have to investigate.
Vibrating noise from transfer case shift leaver.

1. I had to get a longer radiator hose (spiral type) and it rubs to the inter-cooler resonator pipe as it is not formed to fit as the original hose.
The air-filter to turbo hose was a bit short but I just stretched it by hand and refastened to air-filter outlet pipe so its OK.

2. The transfer-case leaver is very low and the top boot I had to remove to make her stay in 2wd, the leaver is still rubbing the floor penetration hole steel bracket and making vibrating noise this still has to be modified.

3. I made new rubber skirts for the inner fender wall to prevent road dirt to splash on top of fuel tank and in to engine bay.
Glue screw and then silicone on top to prevent water dirt to penetrate in between rubber and fender metal wall. Self tapping metal screws is a good idea.

CONCLUSION:

Can be done in a weekend if you are 3 persons.

The repositioning of the bumpers is the most difficult task and can be solved in different ways.

I choose to cut and weld the frame bumper brackets, but bolt-on brackets can be made (time consuming), then a 30mm lift is better to utilize the upper mounting holes on frame for the rear bumper.

(Note the rear bumper outer and inner attachments brackets bolts / nut-holes are with different distance apart in height, the outer are approx 30mm apart in height & this is the strongest point.)

The chrome steel bumper part must be well free (cut) from the frame for a good fit of the outer bumper plastic parts (fender) as this is aesthetically most important fit.

Check with your local vehicle inspection what you are allowed to do.

Many thanks to Lars for allowing us to reproduce this excellent post.